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Author Topic: Ben's Banshee Transformation  (Read 32534 times)
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Ben
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« on: October 09, 2006, 08:49:06 PM »

Decided to start looking now for parts for winter banshee project, +4 swingarm and CPI inframe pipes, and found that they are definitely out there. BansheeHQ is a waste of time, seems like mostly dirt banshees on there, but tons of stuff on PS. My question is what do you guys think a good set of used CPIs should go for? new set?
There was a new set for $470 and a good used set for $400. Wasnt really ready to buy yet, but if good deal i will

And also they make a small bore and a large bore? im sure small bores would be for me.

Does anyone know for sure who makes Vitos Fat Bastard pipes?

Also, for those of you who buy off forums, how do you usually pay?
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Ben
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« Reply #1 on: October 09, 2006, 08:57:03 PM »

looks like $581 for a new set right from CPI
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Jeremy
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« Reply #2 on: October 09, 2006, 08:59:05 PM »

Pay with pay pal whenever possible.  That way you can use your CC.  Or send a money order from the post office.  I would pay around $375 for good used pipes at the most.  They do make small bore and big bore pipes. 

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busyfixin
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« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2006, 11:33:17 PM »

i was thinking about the same, 375 for a real nice set, 350 with minor wear

as for the +4 arm, do you plan on jumping the crap out of it, if your not gonna get huge air, id probably get a tyson.
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Ben
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« Reply #4 on: October 10, 2006, 01:00:55 PM »

i was thinking about the same, 375 for a real nice set, 350 with minor wear

as for the +4 arm, do you plan on jumping the crap out of it, if your not gonna get huge air, id probably get a tyson.

No i dont plan on airing it out, the biggest thing is that i want to get away from the stock axle carrier and get the concentric style one
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« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2006, 01:02:52 PM »

Does anyone know of a site or something that goes in depth on the differences of cylinders for shees as far as cub, cheetah, t-rex, and all that BS? I have a foggy idea but would like to know for sure.
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Pete
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« Reply #6 on: October 10, 2006, 01:04:44 PM »

Does anyone know of a site or something that goes in depth on the differences of cylinders for shees as far as cub, cheetah, t-rex, and all that BS? I have a foggy idea but would like to know for sure.

Cheetah uses 250R sized reed cages I believe
Cub uses stock Banshee sized reeds.
Trex, old cylinder setup, probably uses banshee reeds but I'm not sure

I'm sure BC could elaborate on this more, but hey I do what I can.
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Ben
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« Reply #7 on: October 10, 2006, 01:08:14 PM »

Does anyone know of a site or something that goes in depth on the differences of cylinders for shees as far as cub, cheetah, t-rex, and all that BS? I have a foggy idea but would like to know for sure.

Cheetah uses 250R sized reed cages I believe
Cub uses stock Banshee sized reeds.
Trex, old cylinder setup, probably uses banshee reeds but I'm not sure

I'm sure BC could elaborate on this more, but hey I do what I can.

isnt it also have smething to do with the ports and how many there are?
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Pete
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« Reply #8 on: October 10, 2006, 01:11:04 PM »

Does anyone know of a site or something that goes in depth on the differences of cylinders for shees as far as cub, cheetah, t-rex, and all that BS? I have a foggy idea but would like to know for sure.

Cheetah uses 250R sized reed cages I believe
Cub uses stock Banshee sized reeds.
Trex, old cylinder setup, probably uses banshee reeds but I'm not sure

I'm sure BC could elaborate on this more, but hey I do what I can.

isnt it also have smething to do with the ports and how many there are?

I sure the Cub is slightly different port wise, but compared to a stock Banshee cylinder, light years ahead.  The cub is supposed to appear 'stock' from a glance...
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Ben
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« Reply #9 on: October 10, 2006, 01:12:59 PM »

Does anyone know of a site or something that goes in depth on the differences of cylinders for shees as far as cub, cheetah, t-rex, and all that BS? I have a foggy idea but would like to know for sure.

Cheetah uses 250R sized reed cages I believe
Cub uses stock Banshee sized reeds.
Trex, old cylinder setup, probably uses banshee reeds but I'm not sure

I'm sure BC could elaborate on this more, but hey I do what I can.

isnt it also have smething to do with the ports and how many there are?

I sure the Cub is slightly different port wise, but compared to a stock Banshee cylinder, light years ahead.  The cub is supposed to appear 'stock' from a glance...

ive been hearing alot of stuff i like about the cub...............are they a bolt on and go, as in they dont need porting done?
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« Reply #10 on: October 10, 2006, 01:18:13 PM »

Does anyone know of a site or something that goes in depth on the differences of cylinders for shees as far as cub, cheetah, t-rex, and all that BS? I have a foggy idea but would like to know for sure.

Cheetah uses 250R sized reed cages I believe
Cub uses stock Banshee sized reeds.
Trex, old cylinder setup, probably uses banshee reeds but I'm not sure

I'm sure BC could elaborate on this more, but hey I do what I can.

isnt it also have smething to do with the ports and how many there are?

I sure the Cub is slightly different port wise, but compared to a stock Banshee cylinder, light years ahead.  The cub is supposed to appear 'stock' from a glance...

ive been hearing alot of stuff i like about the cub...............are they a bolt on and go, as in they dont need porting done?

i'm sure they run pretty well just as is.
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Jeremy
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« Reply #11 on: October 10, 2006, 03:29:54 PM »

The cub would be your best, and cheapest bet.  Itll use your stock head, and any stock style reed, aka V force.  They come with triple exhaust ports and will run good right out of the box.  You could have the ports cleaned up if you wanted for a little more power. 

The cheetah will require larger reeds, cheetah head, etc etc and will cost more.  The cubs are running just as strong as the cheetahs. 

Dont waste your time on a T rex, too old. 

Id go with a 4mm cub setup with v force reeds, and CPI pipes.  BC could set you right up...pm him.
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« Reply #12 on: October 10, 2006, 07:35:39 PM »

The cub would be your best, and cheapest bet.  Itll use your stock head, and any stock style reed, aka V force.  They come with triple exhaust ports and will run good right out of the box.  You could have the ports cleaned up if you wanted for a little more power. 

The cheetah will require larger reeds, cheetah head, etc etc and will cost more.  The cubs are running just as strong as the cheetahs. 

Dont waste your time on a T rex, too old. 

Id go with a 4mm cub setup with v force reeds, and CPI pipes.  BC could set you right up...pm him.

Man, i think you read my mind. Thats the setup i was planning on doing. I didnt want a t-rex or a cheetah, just wanted to know about them. Would probaly just bolt cub up and go. Also i want to get a Noss machine head for it. Already have 35mm carbs and reeds. I wanted to do something with the crank, either rebuild and weld stock one or do 4mm like you were saying. Think it will be more then enough seeing as how im not making a dragger.
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« Reply #13 on: October 12, 2006, 09:59:45 AM »

Ive been in class for Catia stuff so I havent been able to get online as much....

Cubs & Cheetahs have the same port layout.  Double finger intake, boyesen ports, 6 transfer ports, main unbridged exhaust, sub exhaust ports.  The intake port is wider on the Cheetahs due to the larger TRX250R reed cages.

Cubs are avaiable in 65 & 68mm bores, 54 thru 68mm stroke  Use all the stock cylinder components.
Super Cubs are available in 72mm bore.  Requires different head
Cheetahs are available in 68 thru 74.5 bore up to 16mm stroke.  Has thier own head and requires 250R reed cages and custom intake boots.
Cheetah Dominant Male are available in 78mm bore up to 20mm stroke.  Again their own head, requires big flange pipes.

T-Rex, no one really has been able to get the small ones (<440cc) to run all that well.  The bigger ones 500cc+ run very well but take ALOT of port work.  T-Rexs use YZ250 reeds.  They have thier own head.  Piston are thru Racers Edge.....good luck....

No porting required on the Cubs.  They are an explosive motor.  Its 90HP outta the box.  Alot of people dont realize how much that really is.  To really be able to have any fun riding it- a plus 8 arm is the minimum, with 22-11-8 ultra-lites, 12 paddle.  IMO they are not a good dune motor.  They are a tad spongy down low and then BOOOM it hits the pipe and you are off and going.  If you are a very aggressive rider a Cub will work well.  Use CPIs on it, the power comes on a bit earlier.  Shearers make more power, but almost 1K rpm later.

Bigger carbs on the Cubs are cheap HP.  Stock vs. 35mm PWKs are about 8 HP.  But you're there already....

There have been some issues with the plating flaking on the Cubs.  Not bad- but unlike the snowmo and bike stuff they do not tolerate detonation at all....they peel.  The hot rod motors lately I buy raw and sleeve them....
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Jeremy
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« Reply #14 on: October 13, 2006, 06:54:52 PM »

The cub would be your best, and cheapest bet.  Itll use your stock head, and any stock style reed, aka V force.  They come with triple exhaust ports and will run good right out of the box.  You could have the ports cleaned up if you wanted for a little more power. 

The cheetah will require larger reeds, cheetah head, etc etc and will cost more.  The cubs are running just as strong as the cheetahs. 

Dont waste your time on a T rex, too old. 

Id go with a 4mm cub setup with v force reeds, and CPI pipes.  BC could set you right up...pm him.

Man, i think you read my mind. Thats the setup i was planning on doing. I didnt want a t-rex or a cheetah, just wanted to know about them. Would probaly just bolt cub up and go. Also i want to get a Noss machine head for it. Already have 35mm carbs and reeds. I wanted to do something with the crank, either rebuild and weld stock one or do 4mm like you were saying. Think it will be more then enough seeing as how im not making a dragger.

I wouldnt waste my time on ANY aftermarket head.  Just have the stocker cut for $35.
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